Cashmere
Fine protein fiber dehaired from the undercoat of Capra hircus goats. Fiber diameter 14–19 µm (Grade A ≤15.5 µm) delivers exceptional softness and warmth-to-weight at the cost of pilling susceptibility and premium price. Each goat yields only 150–200 g of usable fiber per year.
Key Properties
| origin | capra_hircus_goat |
| fiber class | natural_protein |
Decision Summary
Choose cashmere when maximum softness and warmth-to-weight ratio are the primary requirements and you accept higher price, pilling risk, and hand-wash care. Choose Merino wool when you need similar next-to-skin comfort with greater durability, machine washability (Superwash), and significantly lower cost.
Why Cashmere Behaves the Way It Does
Cashmere comes from the fine down undercoat of Capra hircus goats adapted to the Himalayan plateau and Mongolian steppes, where temperature swings from −40°C in winter to +30°C in summer selected for extreme insulation at minimal fiber diameter. Each goat yields only 150–200 grams of dehaired, usable fiber per year [1] — compared to 3–5 kg per Merino sheep — which is the primary driver of the price premium.
Cashmere's fiber diameter (typically 14–19 µm) means more fiber contacts skin per unit area than wool of the same weight, distributing pressure across a larger contact surface and eliminating the prickle sensation that coarser fibers (above ~22 µm) cause [2]. The scale structure is shallower than wool's, producing a silkier hand — but also less inter-fiber grip. This makes cashmere yarn susceptible to pilling unless yarn twist is kept high or staple length is long enough to resist fiber migration.
Cashmere Grade Reference
| Grade | Fiber diameter | Characteristics | Typical use |
|---|
|-------|---------------|----------------|-------------|
| Grade A | ≤15.5 µm [3] | Softest; rarest; <3% of world production | Ultra-fine knitwear, baby cashmere |
|---|---|---|---|
| Grade B | 15.5–17 µm | Premium market standard | Quality sweaters, scarves |
| Grade C | 17–19 µm | Standard commercial; overlaps with Superfine Merino | Mass-market knitwear |
Technical Comparison vs Fine Merino
| Property | Cashmere Grade B | Fine Merino (18.5 µm) | Advantage |
|---|
|----------|-----------------|---------------------|-----------|
| Fiber diameter | 15.5–17 µm [3] | 17–19 µm | Cashmere (marginally softer at same weight) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warmth-to-weight | ~3× standard wool [1] | ~2× standard wool | Cashmere |
| Moisture regain | ~14% [4] | 14–18% | Comparable |
| Pilling resistance | Low (shallow scales, low grip) | Moderate | Merino |
| Tensile strength | 8–14 cN/tex [4] | 9–16 cN/tex | Merino (marginally) |
| Machine washability | Rarely; hand wash preferred | Superwash-treated: yes | Merino |
| Fiber yield per animal/year | 150–200 g [1] | 3–5 kg (sheep) | Merino (far greater supply) |
The Grade C Trap
Grade C cashmere (17–19 µm) overlaps in diameter with Superfine Merino (17–18.5 µm) but still commands a cashmere price premium. At this overlap, Superwash Merino frequently offers similar softness, better durability, machine washability, and lower cost. The cashmere premium is most defensible at Grade A (≤15.5 µm), where no Merino equivalent exists.
Care Requirements
Hand wash in cold water (15–20°C) with a Woolmark-certified detergent. Pilling after 2–4 wearings is normal — it slows and stops as the shortest loose fibers migrate out. Remove pills with a cashmere comb or fabric shaver without damaging the garment. Do not hang; fold and store in breathable bags. Cedar blocks deter moths more reliably than mothballs.
Sources and References
[1] World Cashmere Organisation / International Wool Textile Organisation. Cashmere production statistics and grade definitions.
[2] Garnsworthy, R.K. et al., Understanding the Causes of Prickling and Itching, Wool Technology and Sheep Breeding. Prickle threshold at 22 µm fiber diameter.
[3] IWTO Test Method IWTO-47: Measurement of cashmere fiber diameter and grade classification.
[4] Ryder, M.L. & Stephenson, S.K., Wool Growth, Academic Press. Fiber properties and moisture regain data.
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